For information about ordering, including payment methods, shipping, and returns, please see Shipping & Returns.
How our site works:
DreamWeaverYarns.com is designed to make it possible for you to choose and order everything you need for your next project with just a few clicks of your mouse. Below most pattern images, you will see a link to the required yarn, the suggested needle or needles, and any required notions. Similarly, in any yarn, you will see suggested patterns with a link to the pattern or pattern book, suggested needle or needles, and any required notions. We carry most of the yarn and supplies for the patterns we feature, and we have kits put together for many patterns requiring more than two different yarns. We will kit any pattern upon request. E-mail info@DreamWeaverYarns.com
About pattern details stated on our site:
We work very hard to provide accurate, abbreviated information about the yarn, needles and notions required for the patterns we picture on our site. An error by us or by the patternmaker can happen, however, and we apologize for any inconvenience this may cause. It is a wise practice to check the patternmaker's website for any pattern corrections prior to starting your project. If Dream Weaver Yarns becomes aware of a pattern correction, we will be sure to include a copy along with your pattern when we ship it to you.
About yarn weight:
Yarn comes in different thicknesses. Yarn thickness, or weight, is categorized by how many stitches per inch the yarn knits up at.
Lace knits up at 8 or more stitches per inch;
Fingering knits up at 6.75-8 stitches per inch;
Sport, 5.75-6.5 stitches per inch;
DK, 5.25-6 stitches per inch;
Worsted/Aran, 4-5 stitches per inch;
Bulky, 3-3.75 stitches per inch; and
Super Bulky, 1.5-2.75 stitches per inch.
Lace weight yarn crochets at 8 or more single crochet (sc) per inch;
Fingering weight yarn crochets at 5.25-8 sc per inch;
Sport weight yarn crochets at 4-5 sc per inch;
DK weight yarn crochets at 3-4.25 sc per inch;
Worsted weight yarn crochets at 2.75-3.5 sc per inch;
Bulky weight yarn crochets at 2-2.75 sc per inch; and
Super Bulky weight yarn crochets at 1.25-2.25 sc per inch.
A pattern is written specifically for a certain thickness of yarn. Substituting one thickness of yarn for another will affect the size, and the drape and appearance, of your finished project.
How much yarn should I purchase for a project?
If you are using the yarn the pattern suggests, you can simply purchase the number of balls, skeins, or hanks specified for the size you are making.
If you are not using the yarn the pattern suggests, choose a yarn that is the same thickness and gauge as the yarn suggested in the pattern. This information will appear on the yarn label. For example, if the pattern calls for worsted weight yarn with a gauge of 4 stitches per inch, you will need to purchase a worsted weight yarn with a gauge of 4 stitches per inch.
Most patterns do not specify the yardage required to complete a project. The best way to determine how much yarn you will need for a project is to look at the label for the yarn the pattern suggests. How many yards does that yarn have per skein? If each skein of the suggested yarn has 120 yards, and the pattern says your medium size sweater requires 6 skeins, you will need 720 yards to complete the project (6 skeins times 120 yards per skein). Now, look at the yardage on the yarn you wish to use. Let's say the yarn you wish to use has 160 yards per skein. Divide the total number of yards required for the project by the number of yards in each skein of the yarn you wish to use. 720 divided by 160 equals 4.5. You will need 4.5 skeins. Round up to 5. Purchase 5 skeins of your chosen yarn. When substituting yarn, it is a good idea to purchase more yarn than you think you may need. If you run short and have to buy more yarn later, you may not be able to get the same dye lot. New, unused skeins can be returned to Dream Weaver Yarns LLC (see Shipping & Returns). Or create a coordinating scarf with what's left!
What is gauge?
Gauge is very important. To create something that is the size and measurements stated in the pattern, be sure your gauge is the same as the gauge required by the pattern. This is vital. Never underestimate the importance of a gauge swatch!
To knit a gauge swatch, start with the needle size suggested in the pattern or on the yarn label. Generally, the suggested knitting needle size for each yarn weight will be:
Lace, US size 1 and smaller;
Fingering, US size 1-3;
Sport, US size 3-5;
DK, US size 5-7;
Worsted/Aran, US size 7-9;
Bulky, US size 9-11; and
Super Bulky, US size 11 and larger.
Cast on at least 20 stitches. Work in stockinette (i.e. knit one row, purl one row), or in a pattern stitch as specified in the pattern, for a number of inches. It is a good idea to create a gauge swatch at least 4" x 4". Measure how many stitches and how many rows you are knitting per inch. This is your gauge. If you are knitting more stitches per inch than the pattern requires, use a larger needle. If you are knitting fewer stitches than the pattern requires, use a smaller needle. Be sure your gauge matches the gauge specified in the pattern.
To crochet a gauge swatch, start with the hook size suggested in the pattern or on the yarn label. Generally, the suggested crochet hook size for each yarn weight will be:
Lace, US size B-1 and smaller;
Fingering, US size B-1 to E-4;
Sport, US size E-4 to 7;
DK, US size 7 to I-9;
Worsted/Aran, US size I-9 to K-10.5;
Bulky, US size K-10.5 to M-13; and
Super Bulky, US size M-13 and larger.
Chain at least 20 stitches. Work in the pattern stitch specified in the pattern for about 4". Measure how many stitches and how many rows you are crocheting per inch. This is your gauge. If you are crocheting more stitches per inch than the pattern requires, use a larger hook. If you are crocheting fewer stitches per inch than the pattern requires, use a smaller hook. Be sure your gauge matches the gauge specified in the pattern.
Equivalent Knitting Needle Sizes
British (UK) Size
Equivalent Crochet Hook Sizes
British (UK) Size
Inches = Centimeters x 0.3937
Yards = Meters x 1.094
Centimeters = Inches x 2.54
Meters = Yards x 0.9144
.75 oz = 20 g
1 oz = 28 g
1.5 oz = 40 g
1.75 oz = 50 g
2 oz = 60 g
3.5 oz = 100 g
Here is a very simple guide, based on chest measurement, to help you choose a size for your project. ("Chest measurement" is the measurement around the fullest part of the chest.)
For a chest measurement up to 18" (45.5 cm), 5-10 lbs, choose Newborn
For a chest measurement up to 20" (51 cm), 11-18 lbs, choose 6 Months
For a chest measurement up to 22" (56 cm), 19-24 lbs, choose 12 Months
If the chest measurement is 21" (53.5 cm), choose Child's Size 2
If the chest measurement is 23" (58.5 cm), choose Child's Size 4
If the chest measurement is 25" (63.5 cm), choose Child's Size 6
If the chest measurement is 26.5" (67.5 cm), choose Child's Size 8
If the chest measurement is 28" (71 cm), choose Child's Size 10
If the chest measurement is 30" (76 cm), choose Child's Size 12
If the chest measurement is 31.5" (80 cm), choose Child's Size 14
If the chest measurement is 28" (71 cm), choose Women's Size XXS
If the chest measurement is 30" (76 cm), choose Women's Size XS
If the chest measurement is 32-34" (81-86.5 cm), choose Women's Size Small
If the chest measurement is 36-38" (91.5-96.5 cm), choose Women's Size Medium
If the chest measurement is 40-42" (101.5-106.5 cm), choose Women's Size Large
If the chest measurement is 44-46" (112-117 cm), choose Women's Size 1X
If the chest measurement is 48-50" (122-127 cm), choose Women's Size 2X
If the chest measurement is 52-54" (132-137 cm), choose Women's Size 3X
If the chest measurement is 34-36" (86.5-91.5 cm), choose Men's Size Small
If the chest measurement is 38-40" (96.5-102 cm), choose Men's Size Medium
If the chest measurement is 42-44" (107-112 cm), choose Men's Size Large
If the chest measurement is 46-48" (117-122 cm), choose Men's Size 1X
If the chest measurement is 50-52" (127-132 cm), choose Men's Size 2X
alt = alternate
approx = approximately
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
CC = contrast color
ch = chain(s)
cm = centimeter(s)
cn = cable needle
cont = continu(e)(ing)
dc = double crochet (British tr = treble crochet)
dec = decreas(e)(ing)
dpn = double-pointed needle(s)
EOR = every other row
foll = follow(s)(ing)
g = gram(s)
garter st = garter stitch (knit every row)
hdc = half double crochet (British htr = half treble crochet)
in(s) = inch(es)
inc = increase(e)(ing)
K = knit
k2tog = knit two stitches together
kw = knitwise
LH = left-hand
lp(s) = loop(s)
m = meter(s)
M1 = make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop before next stitch and knitting into the back of it (the picked up horizontal loop will be twisted)
M1 p-st = make one purl stitch
MC = main color
mm = millimeter(s)
oz = ounce(s)
P = purl
p2tog = purl two stitches together
patt = pattern
pm = place marker
psso = pass slipped stitch over
p2sso = pass 2 slipped stitches over
pw = purlwise
rem = remain(s)(ing)
rep = repeat
rev = revers(e)(ing)
rev St st = reverse stockinette stitch
RH = right-hand
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side(s)
sc = single crochet (British dc = double crochet)
sk = skip
SKP = slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over knit 1
SK2P = slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over k2tog
sl = slip
sl st = slip stitch (British sc = single crochet)
sp(s) = space(s)
ssk = slip, slip, knit
sssk = slip, slip, slip, knit
st(s) = stitch(es)
St st = stockinette stitch
tbl = through back of loop
tog = together
tr = treble crochet (British dtr, double treble crochet)
WS = wrong side(s)
w&t = wrap and turn
wyib = with yarn in back
wyif = with yarn in front
yd(s) = yard(s)
yfwd = yarn forward
yo = yarn over
yon = yarn over needle
yrn = yarn round needle
* = repeat directions following * as many times as indicated
[ ] = repeat directions inside brackets as many times as indicated
Regarding crochet stitches,
British double crochet (dc) = US single crochet (sc)
British treble crochet (tr) = US double crochet (dc)
British half-treble crochet (h tr) = US half-double crochet (hdc)
British double treble crochet (d tr) = US treble crochet (tr)
British triple treble crochet (tr tr )= US double treble crochet (d tr)
British quadruple treble crochet (q or quad tr) = US triple treble crochet (tr tr)
British quintuple treble (qt or quint tr) = US quadruple treble (q or quad tr)
British sextuple treble (s or sext tr) = US quintuple treble (qt or quint tr)
Regarding yarn weight,
British 4-ply = US Sport Weight
British Doubleknitting = US Worsted
British Chunky = US Bulky
Glossary of Terms:
(When the British term differs, it is in parenthesis.)
bind off (cast off) = Work two stitches, and then lift the first stitch over the second stitch. Work another stitch (you will have two stitches on right needle), and again lift the first stitch over the second. Continue in this way until all stitches are off the needles.
bind off in ribbing (cast off in ribbing) = Work in ribbing as you bind off (knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches).
3-needle bind off = With the right side of two knitted pieces facing and the needles parallel, insert a third needle into the first stitch on each needle and then knit the two stitches together. Knit the next stitch on each needle the same way, and then lift the first stitch on the right hand needle over the second. Again insert the third needle into the first stitch on each of the other two needles and knit the two stitches together. Again lift the first stitch on the right hand needle over the second. Continue in this way until all stitches are off the needles.
bobbin = Used to hold small amounts of yarn; often used in multicolor, Fair Isle, work.
cast on = Create a starting row of stitches on a needle in order to begin knitting.
decrease (left slanting) = Slip, slip, knit (see below) in order to reduce the number of stitches in a row.
decrease (right slanting) = Knit 2 together in order to reduce the number of stitches in a row.
felting = A process (on purpose or by accident) of applying steam (warm/hot water) to woolen fibers which causes them to mat together and become stiff and firm, like a felt hat.
garter stitch = Knit every row. For circular knitting, knit one round then purl one round.
hairpin lace = Hairpin lace consists of loops made on a large, hairpin-like crochet fork and secured at the center with crochet stitches. Strips of hairpin lace are later joined to make the finished article. To see hairpin lace looms, click here.
increase = Knit into the front and then into the back of a stitch in order to add stitches to a row.
Kitchner stitch = Making a row of stitches that joins two pieces of knitted fabric that have exposed loops. This is grafting.
knitwise = Insert the needle into the stitch as if you were going to knit it.
make one = With the right-hand needle tip, lift the strand between the last stitch worked and the next stitch on the left-hand needle. Place the strand on the left-hand needle and knit into the back of it in order to add a stitch to a row. (The lifted strand should be twisted so that there is no hole in the knitted fabric.)
make one p-st = With the right-hand needle tip, lift the strand between the last stitch worked and the next stitch on the left-hand needle. Place the strand on the left-hand needle and purl it in order to add a stitch to a row. One purl stitch has been added. The lifted strand should be twisted so that there is no hole in the knitted fabric.)
no stitch = When reading a chart, a shaded space indicates where stitches have been decreased or not yet made. There is "no stitch" to work. Work the stitches in the chart, skipping over the shaded "no stitch" spaces.
place markers = Place or attach a loop of contrast yarn or purchased stitch marker as indicated.
pick up and knit (or purl) = Knit or purl into the loops along an edge.
purlwise = Insert the needle into the stitch as if you were going to purl it.
reverse stockinette stitch (reverse stocking stitch) = Purl right-side rows and knit wrong-side rows. For circular knitting, purl all rounds.
selvage stitch = Edge stitch that makes seaming easier.
slip, slip, knit = Slip next two stitches knitwise, one at a time, to the right-hand needle. Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the fronts of these stitches, from left to right, and knit them together. One stitch has been decreased.
slip, slip, slip, knit = Slip next three stitches knitwise, one at a time, to the right-hand needle. Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the fronts of these stitches, from left to right, and knit them together. Two stitches have been decreased.
slip stitch = An unworked stitch made by passing a stitch from the left-hand to the right-hand needle.
stockinette stitch (stocking stitch) = Knit right-side rows and purl wrong-side rows. For circular knitting, knit all rounds.
work even (work straight) = Continue in pattern without increasing or decreasing.
yarn over (yfwd, yon, yrn) = Make a new stitch by wrapping the yarn over the right-hand needle. This will create a hole in the knitted fabric.
How to Felt:
Place the item to be felted in the washing machine. Add a small amount of detergent, use hot water at a low water level. Wash for five minutes. Check to see if the item is felted as tightly as desired; the longer you wash it, the smaller and more felted it will become. If the item is not quite felted enough, continue washing and carefully check every few minutes. When felted, remove and rinse in cold water. Blot with towel. Don't be surprised if the felted item looks nothing like it should. You'll need to shape and block the item, pulling and stretching as needed. If you are felting a bag, you may want to stuff it with plastic bags so that it keeps its shape. Allow to dry completely.
Knitting and crochet terminology, pattern abbreviations, as well as needle and crochet hook sizing, vary considerably across this large world of knitting and crochet. Our goal in creating this FAQ is to provide as complete and accurate a guide as possible, considering the varying information. We hope you find our FAQ useful, but we remind you to always use common sense in your knitting and crochet. If it looks perfect, it is perfect.